SOUTHERN ITALY 2013

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In May, 2013, we returned to Rome for another Italian tour, only this time out of Rome and down to the Amalfi Coast and then farther south to Sicily. This turned out to be one of the most fun tours, partly because we ended up with an exceptional guide, Max, a former TV soap star, who was always very entertaining and made a point of putting a lot of his creative energy into keeping everyone happy.

Well, the tour was also a huge hit because of the places we went and the extraordinary gardens we visited but also because the weather in Italy was outstanding – sunshine every day – which allowed us to relax and take a boat ride around Capri and walk without hindrance in all of the beautiful gardens we went to.

In Rome, our hotel was well-located, near the Piazza della Repubblica. Some of our group walked over from the hotel to the church of Santa Maggiore where they were surprised to see the Pope on a visit.

We toured Rome, going for dinner close to the Pantheon and also next to Piazza Navona.

We also took a day trip out to Tivoli to visit the spectacular water garden of Villa d’Este and the historic and spacious garden of Villa Adriana.

Rome is always a fun city. Nighttimes are especially exciting. We were able to spend time in the Trastevere.

Another day trip out of Rome was to see what we were told was the most romantic garden in the world, Ninfa, the site of an ancient city that had over the centuries become overgrown and was then turned into a lovely garden full of super fragrant roses, orange groves, crumbling ruins, lovely babbling brooks and clear running streams. It certainly lived up to its billing and we came away enchanted by what we had seen.

Leaving Rome, we headed south towards the Amalfi Coast, stopping on the way to visit the lovely garden of Landriana. We also stopped in Pompeii to wander the ruins before settling into our hotel in Sorrento.

From Sorrento, we visited Positano, where we found time to crack open some bottles of Prosecco and have a spontaneous party.

Next we went to Capri, where we visited two terrific gardens,  including the Augustus Garden as well as Villa San Michele, built by Swedish doctor Axel Munthe on the ruins of the famous villa of the Roman Emperor Tiberius.

One of the spectacles of the St. Michele garden was the view across the Bay of Naples to Vesuvius on one side and of Capri’s harbour on the other.

In Anacapri, we had lunch and were serenaded by a local musician who gave us all the classical Italian sing-along songs while we dined. Great fun.

After lunch, we took a fun boat ride around the island, which enabled us to see some of the island’s famous celebrity-owned villas, such as the one where Gracie Fields had lived.

Another day, we went to Ischia to see La Mortella, the garden developed by English composer William Walton and his wife Susana. 

This island garden was full of delights with all sorts of exotic plants displayed on many terraced levels. Views of the ocean from the top of the garden were magnificent. There is nothing quite like the feeling of complete relaxation you get from walking in a sunny Italian garden with a warm sea breeze gently blowing. The smell of grapefruit and oranges on the trees turned the whole experience into something heavenly and unforgettable.

From Sorrento, we travelled down the coast to Ravello to visit two gardens in the town at the top of the hill – Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo, both of which were pure delight. Cimbrone had its fabulous Avenue of Immensity and Terrace of Infinity while Rufolo had its fantastic lower terrace with superb ocean view. In Rufolo, we also heard classical musicians practising and the sounds they made only added to the pleasure of our visit.

Leaving Sorrento, we took a plane from Napoli and went directly to Palermo where, after we toured the town and had lunch, we moved on to Cefalu.

Here we also loved exploring the town and the beach and wandering inside the beautiful cathedral and along the tiny streets with inviting cafes and shops.

From Cefalu, we moved on to Taormina, where our hotel, located next to the ancient Greek amphitheatre, also had spectacular ocean views as well as a great view of volcanic Mt. Etna.

On Sicily, we visited a couple of historic villas with beautiful gardens, including Villa San Giuliano, owned by the same family for 800 years.

These places were teeming with exotic plants, such as massive agave and yuccas and palms, but also with heavenly orchards of grapefruit and orange trees.

We spent time in Syracusa and also in Catania where we moved for our final days before departing for Canada.

From start to finish, this was a happy, laughter-filled tour with continual parties and celebrations. The atmosphere within the group was always warm and friendly and I came away thinking everyone had the time of their life. I think Italy is hard to beat for this kind of experience with superb food, wonderful wine, magnificent scenery and a great evening culture always available. I knew we would come back again and again. And we did with more groups to more parts of Italy. And every time it was the same. Joyful.

swhysall@hotmail.com